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Sun baked soil billowed around us, thrown up by hundreds of horses\' hooves. As I stepped back to avoid the nomads streaming past on their stocky mounts I could feel dust particles grinding between my teeth and sticking to my skin. We had just arrived at a huge nomadic camp several miles from the capital city Ulaan Baatar. As we passed between the horses we could see the traditional ger (yurt) tents dotting the plain, with their makeshift stalls in the entrances selling airag (the traditional drink) and curds. They reminded me of illustrations I had seen of medieval fairs. As we watched the local people standing around waiting for the race we were dazzled by the rich, exotic silk of their traditional dell costumes, and were reminded that this was half a world away from home. Picking our way through mazes of guy ropes we hurried as fast as we could to ensure we would see the first tiny jockeys hurtle across the finish line. The day of the festival had passed quickly and left most of us feeling very over-heated. Even Mongolians around us showed signs of sunburn, which made our rosy faces, arms and shoulders seem less embarrassing, but it had been a relaxing couple of days. We had been working on a children\'s summer camp outside the city since we arrived, and were craving a good night out on the town. Our time up to the festival had been spent knee deep in children, There were many embarrassing incidents for us reserved Brits; such as running around in the woods covered in grass and mud pretending to be devils, standing on stage in front of two hundred children singing a dire rendition of \'You are my sunshine\', and the boys from the group being dragged off for football dressed in full make-up and dresses. It was hard work, but seeing children aged ten to seventeen at the end of camp with tears in their eyes waving goodbye to us, was one of the memories of the trip I will carry with me for a very long time. I had been hoping to see some of my class at the festival, but among so many people I realised this was like searching for a needle in a haystack. As the sun grew lower and redder in the sky, we turned our attention to other matters. In this case - making the most of Mongolian nightlife. Mongolia had more or less become normality for us, in the unnerving way that places do - when home seems too far beyond the grasp of reality. However, this did mean getting used some to the eccentricities of Mongolian social life, including a voracious appetite for vodka (which, incidentally, is dangerously cheap) and a great enthusiasm for strippers. Mind you, once you have consumed a few double vodkas, the rest of the evening will probably blur into hazy memories of dancing in large circles to Enrique Iglesias, while over-enthusiastic Mongolian teenagers break-dance cheered on by friends. The most worrying thing about this is that you know it\'s only a matter of time before you are summoned to show that foreigners can dance; and I have to confess that, compared to Mongolians we fared quite badly.
The office work was a contrast to the craziness of our first weeks, as we were now writing and designing the website for the MYDC (which was useful experience for us), but I have to admit that I, personally, missed my army of cheeky children quite badly. While working at the centre we were invited to the initial meeting with girls (aged between twelve and seventeen) on the programme to prevent prostitution. We spent the afternoon playing games with them, and they all seemed happy. However, when you took a step back and watched, many of them had a sadness about them, and you knew it would take much more than five minutes of laughter to erase it. All of us found this difficult, but it was a powerful reminder to us of just how important the work of the centre could be. Urban Mongolia is changing, and is moving on from its Communist past. It is consequently subjected to problems (such as the increase in prostitution) that many developing countries have. It is lucky, however, to have an organisation such as the MYDC to protect the interests of its young with foresight, organising preventative measures. Our time in the office gave us more free time than camp, and we decided to get acquainted with the capital city, including the famous sites such as Sukhbatar Square, the Winter Palace, Gandan Monastery, and not so famous sites such as our local bar. Eventually the web site began to come together and we were able to begin to plan what we were going to do after our work had finished. We were fortunate because the MYDC was associated with a travel organisation, and were therefore able to organise the hire of a bus, driver, and translator for a
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