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France's other Loir

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There is always something reassuringly exciting about going to an area which no-one else has heard about. There is also a certain degree of smugness when you drop it into conversation. “The Loire Valley? Oh no, there’s far too many British tourists there for us. No, we go to the Loir Valley ?without the ‘e? You haven’t heard of it? Really??/P>

The Loir Valley is easily confused with the area surrounding the similarly named River “Loire?of which the Loir is a tributary. In fact, the Loir Valley is a very precise area, a true valley, stretching along the River Loir, from just north of Vendome (2?hours drive from Paris or 42 minutes in the TGV), right across to the outskirts of Angers. It is 50km north of the Loire Valley and is situated close to the major towns of Le Mans, Tours, Angers and Orleans. From the U.K. it is best to either fly in to Tours with Ryanair then pick up a hire car or drive from the ferry ports.

So why take the risk of visiting an area that no-one has really heard of before? Surely it’s safer to stick with the more famous sights surrounding the Loire? Well, that may be the case but who wants to play safe when a little adventure can be had instead! There is so much to be seen and done in such a small area ?food, wine and chateaus abound in every direction.

The most striking chateau in the valley is arguably in Le Lude and is still inhabited today, by the Count and Countess de Nicolay. The building itself is of architectural interest because it contains examples of different types of architecture, from the middle ages through to the renaissance. The origins of Chateau du Lude go back to the 10th century. It was built on an outcrop on the banks of the Loir and flanked by six towers . Le Lude offers a rare sample of French architecture through the ages with its four facades each in a different style. It also includes a working kitchen where jams and cakes are made and sold. The gardens designed by Edouard Andre in the 14th century follow the course of the river on two different levels. A classical lower garden, more intimate spring garden, formal lawn, beautiful rose garden and working kitchen garden all compete for your attention. There are regular floral, musical and gourmet events held throughout the year.

The 16th century chateau in Ponce sur le Loir certainly competes with the Le Lude chateau in terms of splendour, and it has an ornate garden and maze within the grounds. Its renaissance neighbours include Courtanvaux, Bazouges, La meziere, and La Possononniere. Other historical sites include the medieval fortresses in the beautiful villages of Lavardin and Freterval, the 15th century Durtal Chateau and Chateau du Plessis-Bourre, and the 18th century Grand Luce Chateau.

The spirit of ancient lifestyles and heritage continues in Lavardin, “one of the most beautiful villages in France? The village church contains a collection of recently re-discovered centuries-old frescoes, which are now being painstakingly restored. Fifteen of the Loir Valley’s churches contain interesting murals or frescoes from the Romanesque period (Areines, Meslay, Vendome, Luray, Ponce to name but a few). A special feature of these works is their integration into the architecture of the churches. This technique can be seen in Ponce-sur-Loir, where a hunter is seen drawing his bow towards a hind painted on the next pillar. The famous ‘Christ in majesty?can be seen in all its glory in Saint-Jacques-des-guerets. The term ‘Loir Valley School?has been used to describe this technique. This is a credible theory given the fact that since the Middle Ages the banks of the Loir formed a well trodden path between Orleans and Angers, facilitating meetings between travelling painters and the local clergy who commissioned their works. Depicting well known biblical scenes, these paintings were designed to teach village communities throughout the Loir, as well as passing pilgrims.

La Fleche lies on the banks of the river with a combination of military discipline and rustic charm. Vendome, town of art and history stands on the arms of the Loir, bedecked in flowers and offering a warm welcome into the Loir region. Although similar in shape, the size and lifestyle of these towns are quite different. In Vendome, the rivers splits into four branches, some of which are interconnected, so the water is never far away. This watery network can also be visited by boat. Accompanied throughout by a guide, visitors can go in search of Balzac or Marshal Rochambeau, hero of the American war of independence. The river flows through La Fleche along a long bend, bathing the old Chateau des Carmes in light. Just a stone’s throw away a ‘futreau?or flat bottomed sailing boat offers a reminder of the emigrants who departed for the New World, reaching Nantes by the Maine, then the Loire.

Bruere Mill has been superbly restored over the last eight years by a group of local volunteers ?its wheel is now turning again and is still used to manufacture blocks of ice. This is a fascinating place to visit and you must look out for the working model inside. Perhaps the best way to see this part of the Loir is by open canoe. The best way to make use of this form of transport is to hire a guide who will take you several miles upstream in a minibus and then canoe downstream with your group, stopping at the mill on the way and paddling right through the middle of La Fleche and back to your car. You can learn the basic skills yourself for a few hours, or if you fancy something a little more challenging, you can embark on a trip lasting several days!

If you prefer other modes of transport then the little train of Thore-la-Rochette is a charming blue and green fifties?railcar that follows the path of the Loir for around twenty kilometres and back again, all in three hours. Starting from a station that also houses a centre of wine and local Vendome produce, it travels to Varennes, site of the TGV high-speed train record (quite a contrast at a grand speed of 515 kph) before doing an about-turn into the Saint Rimay tunnel and Montoire station. Then it’s on towards the troglodyte village and hill of Troo, opposite the church of St-Jacques-des-Guerets and its frescoes.

Tufa rock is limestone formed 90 million years ago by the Turonian Sea. When it catches the sunlight, it takes on a deep golden brown colour, similar in hue to Jasnieres wine. In the Loir Valley, the tradition of adapting the tufa into a living space has made certain hillsides and cliffs resemble Emmenthal cheese! The Valley’s first inhabitants found that the rock’s natural cavities provided good shelter, and so their successors dug into the tufa rock in order to make it more comfortable. According to local legend, ‘Troglos?were little people living in rather poor conditions, often looked down upon until the middle of the 20th century. Times have changed, and inhabitants who live there today do so of their own choosing. From simple alcoves to huge pits, the ‘tuffe?rock conceals some incredible examples of underground architecture. There are some 200 people whose houses are at least partly troglodyte. Many people now use the caves as second homes, artists?studios or retirement homes. Not only can you live in the rock, you can also dine in this unique atmosphere in the following restaurants: ‘Les Caves du Bois aux Moines?in Vendome, ‘Le Caveau?in Lavardin, and ‘La Volonniere?in Ponce-sur-le-Loir. Mass is still celebrated in Villiers-sur-Loir, and in the same town you can also uncover layer upon layer of oyster mushrooms and the famous ‘champignons de Paris?(button mushrooms).

Troo, with its narrow little streets and stairways, reveals a history that spans over a thousand years, a mixture of peaceful and troubled times in which the houses, caves, former chapels, wells and other little ‘constructions?all dug into the rock, bear witness to everyday life throughout the centuries. Visitors are further rewarded with magnificent views over the valley from the collegiate church.

The Loir Valley is famous for its rich variety of food, ranging from cheeses from the Vendome region to La Fleches?poularde (fatted chicken). A trip to the Loir should always include a journey through the diverse vineyards, vast orchards and lush pastures. Farmers, artisans and restaurateurs alike make excellent use of nature’s gifts, keeping up a gourmet tradition that dates back to the Middle Ages. Their efforts ensure that the Valley’s culinary traditions are constantly evolving.

From Villiers-sur-Loir to Chateau-du-Loir, south-facing vineyards consistently produce excellent wines from their different grapes. Coteaux-du-Vendomois (awarded the much respected AOC tag in 2000), Coteaux-du-Loir and Jasnieres wines all have remarkable individuality and form a rich palatte ranging in colour from white to red via ‘gris?(grey) and rose. Produced from the pineau d’Anuis variety of grape, the reds from this region are light, yet full of character with spicy top notes. They can be drunk either chilled or at room temperature. The whites are derived from Chenin Blanc or the Pineau de la Loire grape. Once harvested, they take on a unique aroma and are often good vintages. The latter are recognisable by their taste of flintstone, also known as ‘gun-flint? which lies in the region’s unique soil. The three appellation areas are a delight to the wine connoisseur’s senses.

The traditionally manufactured cheeses ‘Petit Vendome?and ‘Petit Troo?are worthy successors to cheeses matured under ashes all along the Loir’s right bank. Sold fresh, they become deliciously creamy, developing an appetising aroma. Whatever type of cheese tickles your tastebuds, there is something to suit all tastes in the local markets. They also complment Coteaux-du-Vendomois AOC wines perfectly.

There is a large choice of sweets to be sampled too. The ‘Boaurd Patisserie and Chocolate Makers? an old Vendome establishment at the foot of the tower of St Martin, specialises in ‘Sainte larme?(chocolate coated in royal icing), Rochambeau (cookies with chocolate ‘ganache? and Carre Ronsard (nougat and praline). They have to be tasted to be believed! Still in Vendome, in Rue du Change, there is a Spanish grocery which is unique in its field. Maison Bernat was founded a century ago by the grandfather of the current grocer and sells fruit, wine, cheese and sweet products from the Iberian peninsula ?one way of reminding us that King Juan Carlos of Spain is a descendant of the dukes of Vendome!

For centuries, the Loir, its tributaries, and numerous ponds have given lovers of freshwater fish much pleasure, particularly with its famous ‘Loir Zander??much appreciated by gastronomes since the 19th century. It is very easy to find good restaurants serving trout ‘a la crème? grilled perch, terrine of pike, zander with jasnieres, escalopes of zander with local chitterlings sausage, roast turbot and even stewed eels. They all have their own special recipes that go just as well with a Coteau-du-Loir white as a Jasnieres or gris du Vendomis.

The nearer you get to Anjou, the more apples are eaten. The ‘Val de Loire?label covers the different varieties grown south of the Sarthe, in the Nantes region: Golden Delicious, Reine des Reinettes and Boskrop. The area around La Chartre-sur-le-Loir, Chateau-du-Loir, Vaas and Le Lude produce a plentiful supply. They also produce pears full of flavour such as Williams and Comince amongst others. The famous Le Mans ‘Reinettes?are still grown in certain traditional orchards and used in many local recipes, usually accompanying pork or poultry, but also used in ‘bourdaine? a sort of apple turnover. Gastronomy is alive and well in the Loir Valley, judging from the range of eating establishments on offer. Choose from popular tourist eateries, and Logis de France, to four star tables at the Briollay.

Other places worth visiting in the area include the Forest of Berce. This is the remnants of the enormous Gaul forest of Carnutes. The many slopes and valleys within the 13,300 acre horseshoe shape area are covered with broad-leafed trees and maritime pines. The forest is also a perfect link between the historical heritage of the Chateau-du-Loir and the Grand-Luce chateau gardens. Between the two is the charming village of Jupilles, home to the Wood and Forest Museum, to artists?studios to the Apple scruchers?conservation orchard and holiday cottages with ‘plant conservation? There are lots of opportunities here for hiking on foot, hiring bikes or horses. The cross-country biking circuits cover 280 kilometres marked out on routes of 6 to 40 kilometres. From spring to autumn, the forest hums with life, day and night. Springs and small lakes appear through the greenery, water flows past the gourmet inn the “Hermitiere? whose terrace is shaded by centuries-old oaks, and clearly impressed the Queen Mother, who wrote in 1984 “Exquisite dinner, delightful spot?

In the zoo at La Fleche classic African animals (elephants, giraffes, crocodiles, monkeys and hippos) rub shoulders with those from the Far North (polar bears, sea lions and penguins in an 800,000 litre water park, and white wolves from the Arctic). In all, over a thousand animals and 130 species are gathered here with their newest mascot, a baby panda from China! The park is also part of the European Programme for reproducing and raising threatened species and its role is to protect some twenty species.

The regional Marce Air Museum on the Angers-Marce airport near Seiches-sur-le-Loir has dozens of flying machines from throughout the 20th century. Some of these planes are completely unique, with the scale of the collection, they entirely justify the museum’s classification as second only in France to Bourget.

So, is the Loir Valley worth a visit? Undoubtedly ‘Oui? There is so much to see in a relatively compact area. The area has far less tourists than neighbouring Loire Valley and just picture the smug grin on your face as you tell of your adventures to friends who have never heard of the Loir without an ‘e?

Read on for Travel Facts
The website for the Loir Tourist Board is http://www.loir-valley.com/
Producers Syndicate of Coteaux-du-Loir and Jasnieres AOC wines :
www.tours.online.com/jasnieres
Flight information to Tours from Ryanair @ http://www.ryanair.com/