|
The Orient Express dates back to October 1883. By the 1920\'s the train was running from Paris to Istanbul via Venice, through the Simplon Tunnel, built in 1906. Those were the train\'s glory days. Decadence was the ‘mot du jour? Royalty and celebrities alike travelled in pure luxury and opulence throughout Europe. |
The Orient Express has a mythical quality which has been with me for as long as I can remember. Tales of eccentric and eclectic travellers taking a voyage to far flung places have been lurking at the back of my mind since childhood. Movies, books and stories told, had me waiting for the day when I might too, be part of that chosen few, that group of distinguished passengers heading for an exotic destination.
The train would take us from Bangkok to Singapore via Kuala Lumpur through some of the world’s most luxuriant and beautiful countryside, through Thailand and Malaysia.
The first railway built in Malaysia was completed in 1869 under the orders of the Sultan of Johor. But, entirely made of wood, it was soon eaten by termites. Sixteen years later the network was rebuilt and, by 1909 both Malaysia and Thailand had their own railway systems. Eight years later the two joined at the border.
Travelling through these two countries on one train is a first. The Eastern & Oriental Express is the only company to have this privilege. The agreement signed in 1991 with both Malaysian and Thai rail networks was a necessity for the luxury train to travel the length of the 1,262 mile peninsula.
"This is still the most exotic way to see this part of the world, a civilised way to see the backyards of the country" says the train\'s manager. And I couldn\'t agree more.
We arrived at Hualampong Station on a hot, muggy morning in Bangkok full of anticipation. Entering the Orient Express lounge was the start to a journey in a parallel universe. Outside, baggage handlers were scurrying around while passengers waved their goodbyes. Inside, we checked in and were seated for brunch by the Maitre D\'. "Would you care to share a table?" he asked. Of course, I thought, who knows who you might meet on the Orient Express....
As I stepped aboard the elegant dark green and cream wagon, I was transported back in time. I fully expected to see two English spinsters, an Austrian baroness and Hercule Poirot having tea in the Restaurant car, while, in the corner, a glamorous blonde puffed seductively from a cigarette holder, as she flirted with an elderly gentleman.
Although the Bangkok to Singapore route has only been operational since 1993, the cars all ooze traditional colonial poise mixed with Thai style and Malaysian grace.
All 22 carriages were entirely gutted and redecorated. Major changes included adding air-conditioning, adjusting the gage to make sure it was compatible with the Malaysian and Thai railway tracks and refitting with lavish interiors. The Observation Cart at the end of the train had been especially built to withstand both intense sunlight and tropical downpours. Soft furnishings were imported from Paris. Only the best?/P>
Everything was thought of to ensure a pleasant voyage - even the numbers of the carriages bring luck. Certain numbers were avoided according to Chinese superstitions!
This is no ordinary train. Luxury prevails. In fact, Ulf Bruchert, the manager, confides that the train was modelled on the one in the 1932 Marlene Dietrich movie \'Shanghai Express\'. The spacious carriages were designed for your comfort: antique brass fittings, gleaming wood panelling, large viewing windows, soft towels and Bulgari shower cream - total indulgence. And there\'s more: you have your very own cabin steward who is on call 24hours a day. For $65 he will even bring you a bottle of Veuve Cliquot. Sheer extravagance...
TVs, radios and constant mobile ring tones are conspicuously absent. A rarity, and a luxury today. Yet there is no time to get bored. From leaving Bangkok and its tin-roofed shacks, houses on stilts and diligent communities on the rail side to the bright lime green jungle; it\'s simply impossible to stop looking out and taking in the diversity of life.
Surprisingly, the passage from Buddhist Thailand to Muslim Malaysia is quite clear. Even without the cabin steward\'s little card advising travellers to adjust their watches (there is an hour\'s difference), looking outside said it all. From Thailand\'s terraced farms we were plunged into Malaysian rubber plantations. The change was startling.
In Malaysia the train stops in Butterworth for a visit to the Spice Island of Penang. A chequered history of British, Malaysian and Chinese influence throughout time makes George Town colourful and diverse. From the people to the architecture, it\'s a real melting pot of cultures. The visit by trishaw takes you from a Chinese clan house, impressive with its ornate, colourful and complex carvings, past little India and the legendary Eastern and Oriental hotel. A good opportunity to see a lot without walking in the stifling heat!
Back on the train, after a wobbly shower it\'s time to meet fellow travellers in the Observation car. The open-air car is ideal for soaking up the tropical environment while sipping an aperitif and socialising. Hair flickering around your face, you are free to embrace the heat, sights, sounds and fragrance of the sultry Malay Peninsula.
The restaurant, run by British Chef, Kevin Cape is a highlight of the journey. Dinner is a formal affair where men are expected to wear jackets and ties and the ladies can dress in their finest garb.
Sampling Grilled Snow Fish steak, Clear Wonton Soup with Tamlueng leaf or Warm Goat\'s Cheese Souffle with Fricassee of Lobster and Thai Asparagus is quite something. And that\'s only the starters.
Watching the landscape at night, while enjoying Pan Fried Sea bass with Lemongrass Risotto, Traditional Thai Massaman Chicken Curry or even Aromatic Confit of Duck with Szechwan style vegetables is a unique, somewhat surreal experience.
And if that weren\'t enough the delicately prepared deserts range from Asian Mixed Fruit Crumble served with Roselle Ice Cream, Delice of Chocolate with Cassis Sauce to Warm Mango Tart and sticky rice. After Petit Fours and coffee, it\'s time to head to the Bar where a piano player provides the entertainment while you enjoy a nightcap.
After crossing the Straits of Johor, the train pulls into Singapore and disappointment sets in. Back to the real world. Your \'train feet\' have finally found the right motion but it\'s back to solid earth.
Everything they say is true. The Orient Express legend deserves its glamorous reputation. Definitely the thing of novels, stories told at dinner parties and the stuff of great memories.
Flip the page for practical information
Additional information ?where to stay:
To complement your trip you\'ll be needing some stylish accommodation at either end.
If you are making your own plans the Sukothai in Bangkok is said to be the most stylish in town. An interior designer’s dream, the hotel exudes luxury and comfort - from the smart porter opening doors, the bell boys with their shiny brass buttons carrying your bags, and the welcoming staff who will take you to your quarters. The hotel boasts three restaurants and has gained international recognition when one of them was named "The Best Restaurant in Bangkok" by Travel & Leisure Magazine 2000.
In a crazy city like Bangkok, The Sukothai is an oasis of calm and plush luxury.
At the other end, in keeping with the style to which you’ve become, head for Raffles hotel. An institution, the hotel was declared a national monument in 1987. The hotel was originally opened in 1887 and keeps much of its golden age charm. Named after Sir Stamford Raffles, the founder of Singapore, the hotel exudes style and tradition, from the impeccable staff to the dazzling antiques.
Travellers planning on taking the train from April to September should enquire about the “Privilege scheme?which entitles those booking a Pullman cabin to a free night\'s accommodation in both Bangkok and Singapore at The Oriental.
The efficient and friendly staff here will make sure your stay in Singapore goes according to plan. Enjoy the outdoor pool on the fourth floor, where you can sip a cocktail while taking in the panoramic view of the city\'s slick skyline or visit the newly refurbished spa.
The hotel overlooks Marina Bay. Most rooms benefit from either a harbour view or a city view. Humidity allowing, it\'s a short stroll to both the famous Raffles hotel and the new hotspot: The Fullerton. For shopping fiends, The Oriental is situated between several massive American style malls: Suntec City, Millenia Walk and Marina Square.
Despite being a giant hotel, The Oriental provides personal service and makes you feel special all the way. The hotel boasts seven restaurants. I recommend the \'Wasabi Bistro\', a sushi restaurant with a twist. If you can, try a sample menu. The chef will take you on a voyage sampling a vast array of Japanese dishes fused with a Californian influence. From classic California rolls to fresh white Vichyssoise in a Martini glass and the smoothest melt-in-your-mouth tuna and yellow fin belly sashimi - a total treat.
A perfect place to finish a perfect trip. So good in fact, that you\'ll be resolute on coming back...
Where to book:
The Orient Express
http://www.orient-express.com/
Hotel Sukothai
13/3 South Sathorn Road
Bangkok 10120
Thailand
http://www.sukhothai.com/
Raffles Hotel
1 Beach Road
Singapore 189673
Tel: +65-6337-1886
Fax: +65-6339-7650
Email: Raffles@raffles.com
The Oriental Singapore
5 Raffles Avenue,
Marina Square,
Singapore 039797
http://www.mandarin-oriental.com/
Practical details on arrival in Thailand
Visas:
Most European citizens do not require visas.
Health:
If you are planning on extending your stay in Thailand.
Immunisation against Hepatitis A; typhoid; diphtheria are advised.
Malaria precautions are essential in Ko Chang and along the borders of Laos Cambodia and Myanmar, all year round. (There is very little risk in cities and main tourist areas such as Phuket, Pattaya, Bangkok, Changmai, the river Quai bridge area and offshore islands except Ko Chang.)
Currency Exchange
On arrival you will need Thai Baht to pay for a taxi if you are arranging your own transport. Make sure you have smaller change for the taxi. They will usually claim to have none. Don Muang Airport in Bangkok also has ATM machines.
Rate of Exchange
Approx 67Baht to ?.
Taxis from the Airport
Ignore the touts who will approach you at the terminal exit. Find the taxi-meter service kiosk and ask for a taxi. The fee is a flat fee of Bt 50, which will be added to the meter. Don\'t let the driver have your copy - it is a reference in case of any problem with the taxi.
Let the driver take the toll way. This adds Bt 30 - 70 to the fare but avoids much of Bangkok\'s heavy traffic. The trip into town should be about Bt 250 - 300. Don\'t allow taxi drivers to take you anywhere but your chosen destination or you risk ending up in a hotel for which they work.
Weather
January to August is mostly sunny. March and April are the hottest months. The rainy season starts in October and lasts until January. End of February is a great time to go with temperatures between 28C and 34C.
Artical Related:
Malaccan Made
Spooky Time in Sapa
Several Steps to Gelati Heaven
Wild Time at Rabbit Pass
Captivated in Prague
