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I may just as well have smoked twenty Woodbines in Port Talbot than stroll across the Lánchíd chain bridge linking the two districts of Buda and Pest together. I could barely make out the limestone hills of Buda through the thick smog, rising above the Danube. Being unhealthy comes cheap in post-Communist Budapest where, if you don\'t fancy wading your way through untreated sewage in the Danube, you can buy 20 cigarettes for around 30 pence, eat enough meat to collapse the food chain and suck in the fumes of a thousand acid-washed Skodas. Tourism, which increased by 18% in the first 9 months of 1997 is considerably more healthy for Hungary\'s economy and undemanding on the Western visitor\'s wallet - and now is a good time to visit before its rough edge is swept up by cleaner legislation and coach-loads of anoraks. The Lánchíd, which was completed in 1849 is one of seven bridges linking the two districts together, which were separate cities until 1873 when they united to form Budapest. Buda actually dates back to Medieval times, whilst much of the flat plains occupied by Pest, the commercial centre, originate from the 19th century. I walked back to my hotel through Pest\'s wide avenues fringed with shabby four-storey blocks, whose cracked facades were braced by rusty scaffolding. The pavements were strewn with Fiat 126s, which, if not being repaired in situ, were being pushed down the road to find a suitable spot where they could receive the attention they so visibly needed. Times are still generally tough for many such owners who have seen a decline in living standards since the fall of Communism in 1990. However, Hungarians are renowned for their resilience and laid-back manner, and pushing cars must keep them in reasonable shape. I ignored the menu at the Hotel and other recommended restaurants in the guide book, seeking a cheap local bar instead, many of which double as eateries. I chose the Dóm Söröz?on Szent István tér which looked dodgy enough to be genuine, and allowed me to try out my dismal Hungarian with the friendly bar staff. Hungarian is a Finno-Ugric language closely related to two small dialects from the Ural Mountains in north-west Siberia and bears no resemblance to most other European tongues. I had no trouble at the bar, pointing randomly at a pump and mumbling "egy beer kérem." I ordered food in a similar fashion and was soon devouring thin mushroom soup, a saddle of hare in venison sauce and a glass of wine for 1200 forints (just ?). I washed it down with five pints of Dreher (6% Hungarian pilsner) for the equivalent of a pound a pint, and twisted my staggering body through the scaffolding en route back to my room. The following morning I found out just how much an integral part meat plays in the Hungarian diet, consuming what felt like half a pig for breakfast. I made for the Vár, or Castle District of Buda perched on the top of a hill; a perfect strategic position and designated World Heritage area. Much of its medieval street pattern has survived numerous battles, though little of the Castle itself remains. People still live in petite baroque houses amongst the District\'s narrow streets and squares. In 1945 the Communist Party were given control of occupied Hungary and in 1946 the monarchy abolished and the Hungarian People\'s Republic declared. The Soviet Military Government had the task of rebuilding much of Buda from ruins inflicted by heavy bombing in the War. The former Royal Palace which has been rebuilt many times since the 13th century is a mix of Renaissance, baroque and Gothic styles. In the latter part of the 15th century, under King Mátyás, wine was reputed to have spouted from the mouths of gargoyles. The Palace now houses the more sober Budapest History Museum and the National Gallery. The neo-Gothic parts of the nearby Mátyás Templom also date to the 13th century. The church was a Mosque under Turkish rule in the 16th and 17th centuries and extensively rebuilt by the Habsburgs in the 19th century. At the entrance a beggar shoved a polystyrene cup in front of my face and held his other stump for a hand aloft - a statue of liberty? The rampart surrounding the Templom is broken by Fisherman\'s Bastion. There are several accounts over the origins of the turret\'s name, perhaps the more feasible being that the Fisherman\'s Guild defended this part of the castle - well, their rods wouldn\'t have reached into the Danube, would they. On reaching the crown an over-zealous accordion player broke into \'Jingle bells\'. I threw him 100 forints for pepping up the misty view over the Neo-Gothic Parliament buildings fronting the Pest bank. A tour party appeared as he started into \'Silent Night\' and so I ducked into the dark spiraling interior for a couple of wallet-challenging beers. The Ludwig Museum which opened in the Royal Palace location in 1991 exhibits both paintings and sculptures. The admission fee is 30 pence plus an obligatory tip to the grumpy cloak-room attendant. Exhibits include Russian avant-garde, depictions of Communism and its fall, and American Pop-art works including Andy Warhol\'s \'Elvis\' and several pieces by Roy Lichenstein. A squad of shuffling curators or rather old crones, shadowed my every move, showing a curious interest in the floor when I turned to confront them. There are 70 other galleries, 72 museums, 25 theatres and two opera houses in Budapest - which must keep the elderly ladies out of the bitter winter cold. Hungary has been through some difficult times since the New Economic Mechanism policy which broke with hard-line Communism, began to falter in the 1980s. The Country became more dependent on foreign assistance and inflation soared. Free elections in 1990 were won by the Hungarian Democratic Forum, while the Socialist Party (formerly The Communist Party) took the 1994 elections. Production and unemployment have risen as state-owned industries have been either privatised or shut down, public works fallen into disrepair, and the gap between rich and poor widened. However, radical measures by the Socialists and considerable Western investment has seen an increase in private sector wages and consumption. According to a recent survey by the National Bank, the economy is experiencing strong growth. Hungary is in the first proposed wave of nations to enter the European Union. Such growth is evident in the centre of Pest, where tertiary business and chic fashion stores stand alongside run-down flats and junk shops selling second-hand electrical goods and women\'s lingerie under the same roof. The Hungarian woman has fully embraced the Western platform trainer, though I was pleased to spot the odd Kucsma (the fur hat with wings) nestling rough, moustached faces. I took a break from shopping for some plain food, having already consumed sufficient cholesterol to warrant a vegan diet. I ordered scampi and was served a bowl of plain spaghetti with a langoustine perched on top. I guided my far from kosher stomach to the blue, yellow and red brickwork of the Central Synagogue, the largest in Europe and one of
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