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Pictures by Rob Kambach Want a recipe for a rare treat? Take a pure, sugary-white beach island fringed by turquoise water and coral that has been sweltering in the tropical sun for several million years. Add a handful of French and Dutch adventurers in search of a new life. Simmer 507 years. Turn up the heat and add a little bit of Guavaberry, some salt ponds and lagoons, world class sailing and French restaurants. Baste with equal amounts of sophisticated relaxation and Caribbean charm. Then serve and enjoy. |
We recently picked Sint Maarten from a long list of Caribbean havens and were looking forward to our five-day holiday. Situated 150 miles east of Puerto Rico, this subtropical island on the northeast elbow of the 2,000 mile long Caribbean chain is the smallest land mass in the world (37 square miles) to be divided and claimed by two governments.
St. Maartens original settlers were the Dutch and the French. Its dual owners have shared this tiny paradisical island peacefully for nearly 350 years, and it is this understated absence of conflict that testifies to one of the island\'s most precious and attractive characteristics--its unusual serenity.
The island today reveals touches from the French, Dutch and even from the Spanish, who were Holland\'s most bitter enemy during the Eighty Year War. Truth is, familiarity breeds many things, and there is no shortage of this in St. Maarten where 47 different ethnic groups have united to make their own contributions to this island\'s history.
This land was first inhabited by the Arawak, followed by the Caribs who called this island Soualiga (land of salt). Search for their remains has intensified in recent years, and the island is rich in its evidence of their lives. Salt did shape the history of this island, bringing the Dutch and all comers to the south. The salt lagoons at their peak were harvested and the mineral was exported all over the world.
The island changed nationality sixteen times, but it was Christopher Columbus who named St. Martin when he spotted this island in 1493 while celebrating the feast of St. Martin. Like other islands in the Caribbean that he sighted, he claimed it for Spain.
One can readily sense the difference between the culture and customs of both countires sharing this unique island. Visitors pass freely over the border of these two countries, enjoying the innate differences of both. St. Maarten has an open door policy, which is why it\'s called "The Friendly Island. Only signs of "Welkom" or "Bienvenue" on the side of the road mark the border.
Neither side of this Siamese twin island is an independent country. Dutch St. Maarten is part of the five-island constellation of the Netherlands Antilles. Although today the region falls under the government of Netherlands Antilles and the Kingdom of the Netherlands, its diversity and the strong influence of West-Indian traditions make its culture anything but exclusively Dutch. St. Martin, the French side of the island, is one of seven islands forming the French sub prefecture of Guadeloupe.
The story goes that while competing in the race designed to devide the territory, the French ended up with more land (20 sq. miles) because the wine-drinking Frenchman covered more ground than the jenever-drinking (Dutch gin) Dutchman, and that is why the French side is larger than the Dutch.
Dutch St. Maarten occupies the southern part of the island, an area of 16 square miles marked by verdant, rolling hills that languidly rest above mile after mile of beach, salt ponds and lagoons. With gentle valleys and hills, it is ideal for biking, horseback riding and exploration, all making St. Maarten a great destination choice for a wide variety of tourists.
Philipsburg, the Dutch capital since 1768, fills a narrow stretch of land between Great Bay and the Great Salt Pond. Today this bustling capital city is lined with duty-free shops offering everything from gold to native crafts. The town began as a Dutch trading center, and the forts around Philipsburg are haunting reminders of its one-time strategic importance as traders once sailed through the protective arms of Great Bay, establishing the town as a lively center of international commerce. Although today most of the vessels that arrive in the harbor are cruise ships, international trade still thrives in St. Maarten thanks to its status as a leading duty-free port. Putting it simply, St. Maarten can be a shopper\'s dream come true.
Two main roads cut across the length of Philipsburg--Front Street and, yes, Back Street. Front Street, being the main thoroughfare with it\'s most prominent landmark being the Courthouse a grand white wooden structure topped with a cupola. There is also the Sint martin Museum, which gives visitors an excellent introduction to local history and the famous 8-10 Front St. Guavaberry shop.
But before you use up all your energy shopping, take time to walk up to the Old Fort St. Louis that overlooks the city, its harbor and a distant view of the island of Anguilla. Its hilly terrain makes the island feel oceans away. St. Martins French-speaking residents live primarily here as today\'s restaurant and shop owners are generally young transplants from France, relocated to enjoy the islands pleasures.
In addition to its two-for-the-price-of-one cultural experience that attracts visitors to the island, St. Maartens beauty lies largely on its 37 beautiful beaches -- some of the best in the Caribbean. For those of you who delight in quiet beaches, youll find they are abundant here, and youll delight in their splendid seclusion.
There are several magnificent beaches to choose from: Mullet Bay Beach, Maho Beach, Simpson Beach and Little Bay Beach, all located on the Dutch side of the island. On the French side, Baie Longue, Orient Bay, Coconut Grove, Baie Rouge and Grand Case Beach offer something for everyone\'s taste.
