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Antarctica, the frozen continent, is one of the last frontiers. Snow and ice millions of years old create an inhospitable environment which early explorers sought to conquer. Few people ever experience Antarctica, visiting the huts and gravesites of those early explorers and witnessing the antics of local wildlife. Visiting Antarctica is something incredibly special. So many visitors have told of how their time on the frozen continent has touched their soul and created a lasting impression of untamed, raw and magnificent beauty - nature at her best. Shokalskiy voyage 1695 gave 46 passengers from around the world the opportunity to experience Antarctica first-hand. All came home moved and inspired by their travels. This is their story - excerpts from the Shokalskiy log, in which each passenger recorded their innermost thoughts as they traversed the Southern Ocean bound for Antarctica. Voyage 1695 : South Antarctica, departed Dunedin (South Island, New Zealand) January 5, 2000; returned to Bluff (South Island, New Zealand), February 4, 2000. Staff on board: Expedition leader : Rodney Russ, a veteran of 25 years work in the Southern Ocean Cruise director: Sally Millns, second season aboard Shokalskiy Lecturer/zodiac driver: Jim Perry, biologist and commercial yacht master NZ Government representative: Brian Ahern, Antarctica explorer and conservation officer Medical officer: Dr Stephen Vallance Executive chef: Bill James Sous chef: Tina George On board were 46 passengers, from New Zealand, Australia, England, Scotland, New Caledonia, the USA, Canada, Hong Kong, Switzerland, Malaysia and the Netherlands. Wednesday, January 5 Depart Dunedin Left dock at 1700 after completing customs formalities, had great calm trip down the harbour, dropping the pilot as we watched northern royal albatross soaring over Taiaroa Head. Set course for Bounty Islands in beautiful conditions. Albatross across the bows riding southern lift demonstrate aviator prowess much superior to ours Thursday, January 6 At sea En route to the Bounty Islands with a slight following sea. Pleasant conditions for birdwatching and shipboard life. Very few people affected by motion sickness (a happy situation). Rodneyšs Birding Lecture ŗBirding 101?was a timely introduction to seabird watching, and the entire company now has more confidence in identifying royal and wandering albatross. sailing downhill near a Penguin Colony Friday, January 7 Bounty Islands Arrived at Bounty Islands. Good weather, fantastic trips in the Naiads (semi rigid inflatable boats). Penguins all over the place. Also enormous number of other birds nesting, flying and swimming. Good smell of guano. Lots of fur seals and pups about too. The islands were indeed beautiful to us today - sparkling sunshine, undulating seas, fluffy nesting albatross, soft plumaged prions and humorous, sometimes hilarious, penguins. All this before breakfast! Saturday, January 8 Antipodes Island As I look up I see Antipodes receding as we head for Campbell Island. There is a bit of cloud over the island now, but elsewhere the sky is a beautiful blue picked up by the sea. The key for this trip must be to take each moment as it comes, make the most of it, and enjoy it to the full before storing it in the treasure trove of memory being created. Nothing has prepared me for the wonder of this trip, and I am overwhelmed by the fact that I am here at all. Sunday, January 9 At sea 7.45am - I woke up to find that another one of my dreams had come true. I wanted to know and feel the swell of big seas with waves crashing over the bow of the ship, and there I was at 7am on the bridge watching the power and majesty of the ocean. Monday, January 10 Campbell Island Albatross look so large, but itšs not until you hear the rush of air in their wings and look up to see them really closely that you realise just how huge they are. The sight of beautiful sooty albatross sitting on their nests with squeaking youngsters is completely unforgettable. Thursday, January 11 At sea Oh Shokalskiy, you carefree girl, wading through the troughs, climbing and pivoting on the crests and shrugging off the hissing, side-slapping curls. A quite Russian princess, dressed in egalitarian finish but showing such regal finesse. Wednesday, January 12 At sea We ride in relative comfort, supported by diesel technology. Oh how different from Sir James Clark Ross and all others in their tiny wooden boats. No salt in our faces, encrusting on our skin, seas washing at our bodies as helmsmen and sailors fight for supremacy over the relentless swell. Thursday, January 13 At sea Morale is high despite the grumpy weather and a real sense of camaraderie has developed within, including the staff who have been unfailingly cheerful and helpful. The galley team have been continuing to turn out excellent food under trying circumstances. There is no ŗthem?and ŗus?between staff and passengers - we are all one big team. Yes, it is very special. Friday, January 14 At sea We crossed the Antarctic Circle. We are at the doors of the great white continent, the last one. The dream will soon become reality, and we celebrated with a ceremony comprising mulled wine and promise to advocate and press for protection and preservation of the continent and surrounding seas. A light occasion, but with a serious purpose. Saturday, January 15 Approaching Antarctica If seeing and experiencing beauty makes each of us more aware and compassionate, shouldnšt we do it more often? One of the most impressive things is the lack of wind. The sea is dead calm, and it seems a shame to disturb the water as we cruise past at 10 knots. Amazing to watch the ice smash and disintegrate as the bow cuts through the floes. Sunday, January 16 Cape Adare and Possession Islands - Antarctica Landing on Ridley Beach (Cape Adare) alongside the thousands of adelie penguins was a magic moment. The walk to Hansonšs grave was very special in many ways; special in that so few people get up there, and we had near ideal conditions. The view was stunning. Hansen - a biologist on Borchgrevinks expedition, the first to winter over in
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