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The boat ride over from Samui was in itself something special. About 30 of us were crammed onto a large twin-engine speedboat headed for the party. The passengers, a mix of every western nation, sprinkled with the odd Japanese representatives were drinking and initially in high spirits, anticipating the upcoming full moon party. About five minutes after leaving Koh Samui, things were very different. Nearly all the passengers were either too sick or uneasy about the boat taking us over between the islands to drink or even talk. With only one out of two high power engines working the boat was leaning dangerously to the left. Corneel seemed unaware of the situation chatting undeterred to us but Allan was turning green and looking paralysed. Sitting at the back of the boat close to ocean I figured my chances of survival from an accident were reasonably decent. As was the potential to swim back since the islands are clearly visible and the water warm enough to keep you alive for some time. Something I was not sure about however, was what to expect in the water nor how much alcohol I had consumed by now. Sharks, jellyfish or some other dodgy animals living in the sea were another issue. I laughed out loud myself for a minute or so. Not because anything funny had been said but because I was suddenly feeling very nervous. With the concept of our boat tipping over in the middle of the pitch-black ocean in the back of my mind and seeing the serious, quiet faces of most around me, fear was channelled into laughter. The funny bit being that I actually had paid a lot of money to board a wreck of a speedboat, risking my life along with the other unwitting daredevil maniacs onboard. And so had everybody else on this boat unintentionally done. We paid to be scared shitless! In the absurdity of the moment it was hilarious. "Oh shit, we are going to flip over". Probably could not have drunk another drop even if I tried. Passengers fought soon over the few remaining life vests. Alan looked near the passing out stage and even Corneel noticed what was worrying the others and quieted down after a few minutes. Another 20 minutes and we could see the shore of Koh Pha Ngan being very close. Everybody, including myself, eased up significantly. Then the next startling event happened. Passing the tip of Hat Rin, the beach where the full moon party was being held another boat appeared behind us. It was approaching our boat fast from an angle and had spotlights aimed at our boat. It looked official, probably either a Thai navy vessel or a police boat. Over the roar of the engine I could hear the loudspeakers of the other boat yelling incomprehensible phrases in Thai but our boat did not slow down. Hence it was that we were literally chased onto the shore by the military patrol vessel. They simply were not close enough to catch us. Although I seriously welcomed the idea that they came to close down a potentially hazardous vessel not fit for the oceans, it seemed highly unlikely that was the reason why we were being flagged down. Not only were we stopped entering the speedboat pier, but also they appeared to want to board us on the open ocean as well to check for, or maybe even, plant drugs. The captain of our boat thought differently and accelerated instead. Under the light of ignorance we continued to watch as the other boat steadily narrowed the gap. Our boat had the bigger lead in the end as we quickly approached Hat Rin beach where the full moon party was starting. Ramming the speedboat ashore our captain quickly ushered us ashore with all our belongings. By then the naval patrol had given up and stopped just outside the beach. Grateful to get off one the worst boat experiences so far I had barely had a moment to think about the full moon party since leaving Koh Samui. At Hat Rin people were everywhere, after a rough approximation judging both ends of the beach I guessed around 5,000 people. Along the beach different bars and bungalow villages arranged miniature dance floors or dancing areas, playing various forms of rave and dance music from multiple stereos, every area played their own distinctive type of dance music. The people that weren\'t dancing or moving around were sitting in groups along the beach, or simply sleeping or passing off in droves. Arriving around ten pm, we could see a large number of completely decked out backpackers on the beach from all backgrounds. Randomly placed along the beach were artists painting body art in bright colours on people, something which shown brightly in the neon blue lights located everywhere on the beach. Feeling the atmosphere, I dragged Corneel and Alan to the first bar, ordered a round of tequila, then a round of beer. "Let the full moon party begin!" Corneel, by now in full swing spotted a couple of girls he fancied and ran into a pub that was playing late nineties techno without saying a word. Alan and I went straight to the body art section. I had some aboriginal like designs painted over my face. Alan decided to have "fuck me" written on both arms in massive letters. I later heard that he spent big parts of the evening going up to girls and having them read the text on his arms as a means of trying to pick them up. Feeling the alcohol and the madness of the whole place I ran off to find Corneel and join him on the dance floor. Alan disappeared along the beach to look for Mike. I arrived inside the bar in time to see a chubby girl wearing some spice girls look alike top, completely turn around in disgust and give Corneel the cold shoulder on his attempt to perform some dirty dancing with her. Pacing myself I stayed back to not display any recognisable connection with the flinging Dutchman. Undeterred, Corneel continued unabated to dance behind her until both she and her friend gradually were dancing their way towards the exit, chased by a drunk, sweaty and blond Dutch guy who was as optimistic as ever. On the other side of the bar I pitched my lot in with the crowd and quickly found myself imitating Corneel with some girls in their early 20\'s. Upon doing this and realizing that their surprised look read like something taken from the movie "the return of the creep from the underworld" if there ever was such a film, and that they were moving backwards, I turned around and started dancing by myself in the middle of the room. Feeling and enjoying the music vibrating even in the air breathed inside it, dancing came across as a natural expression. Two minutes later, one of the girls previously moving away grabs me from behind and starts rhythmically moving her body in par with mine. I turn around and move very close to her, suddenly optimistic. A few minutes later we were still dancing and I was about to start talking to her when Corneel appears from nowhere. The other girls he was chasing had unsurprisingly decided to give up, move somewhere else and he had spotted the girl I was with. This guy really was unstoppable, despite the fact that the girl and I were trying to dance together, Corneel made a point at getting between us without giving us a break. Both she and myself gave him the cold shoulder several times, blocking his entrance and even moving away, but to no avail. Shortly after I took him aside three times to tell him to find someone else. The first time politely, he still tried his luck with her, the second time firmly, he returned about one minute later and finally I yelled at him to show move away and pushed him gently backwards. Corneel being severely pissed from the alcohol by now would probably not remember this the next day anyways. Man that guy was persistent! Suddenly realised that what we had thought so funny at Koh Samui could be a royal pain in the neck. Shortly upon shoving Corneel away I turn around, only to find that the girl I had been dancing with had disappeared with her friend. The magical moment was gone and the dispute with Corneel had made her lose interest. Corneel found some other girls to chase shortly after. We stayed on for half an hour longer and then moved outside, sweaty and full of energy. Alan spots us coming out and comes over with a
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