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As paradoxical as it sounds, making a sashimi plate at home is harder than rolling maki-sushi or hand making nigiri sushi. This is because a peculiar combination of skills are required: superlative knife skills, extraordinary patience, and an artistic flair. The quality of the fish certainly needs to be impeccable and, as a painter uses different pigments on a canvas, different fish are required for color and texture. Try to think of what is being served as a painting, the plate as a canvas, and the fish and garnishes as the work itself. This is truly an art form, and, like all art forms, requires practice and a willingness to try again after failure. However, sashimi is well worth trying, because the pride and elation that come when finally serving a plate that your guests find too beautiful to eat is an indescribable feeling. There is also a certain calming, Zen aspect to preparing the fish, the garnishes, and assembling the plate.
Before starting, it is important to go through the safety caveats. This is raw food, and while fish is certainly safer than raw chicken, there are still parasites that can live in the flesh, which can cause a gastronomic event of extreme unpleasantness. Some fish, like the blowfish, or fugu, are poisonous and unsafe to the point where, in Japan, an itamae, or sushi chef, must be licensed to even prepare the fish. Therefore, it is vital that you know your fish in the same way that a mushroom collector must know his or her mushrooms. There is a potential for discomfort, a hospital trip, or worse.
Hygiene is important. Sanitization is even better. Make sure the knives and the cutting board are impeccably clean by washing everything that will come in contact with the fish. Follow up by rinsing everything with bleach water, which is made by combining one capful of household bleach to one gallon of water. Keep some of this handy while cutting to frequently rinse off both the knife and your hands.
It is vital to have a thorough knowledge of what fresh fish looks, smells, and feels like. In Japan, the first step to making the best sashimi is cutting the head off of a live fish. Obviously, there is no way to get any fresher, which brings up a very important point. Sushi and sashimi are not generally served in the evenings in Japan. Because fish, fresh from the boats, is sold in the mornings, sushi is a midday dish. The catch should dictate what is made. If the fish you hope for is not freshly available, it is not used, and plans are changed.
The first clue to freshness is the smell. Fresh fish smells like the sea, and what we call a "fishy" smell is actually the smell of spoilage. If there is such a smell, serious questions should be raised about using the fish at all, let alone serving it raw. The eyes should be clear and bright, almost sparkling. They should also be sitting high on the fish's head, not sunken. Cloudiness and blood in the eye are indications that the fish should not be used. The gills should be firm and a brightly colored red. The flesh should feel firm when pressed, and should spring back when the pressure is released, leaving no marks.
In the best of all possible worlds, only whole fish would be purchased for home sashimi, since the scales, which should be smooth and glossy, provide another important clue to freshness. However, especially in the case of 500+ pound tuna, this is not always possible. If this is the case, look for fillets with a bright color and a nice sheen. The flesh should be firm and have a glossy sheen to it. Shellfish should only be brought home live, which may cause some difficulty in the case of squid and octopus.
Salmon is a problem because its flesh is more conducive to parasitic infection than most seafood. This raises problems because the color of salmon is gorgeous and provides vivid contrasts. Salmon is usually salted for preservation in Japan, and salted fish does not work well in sushi or sashimi because it becomes overpoweringly salty. Remember, the final product is to be eaten as well as visually admired.
To this point, it is as important as anything else to create a relationship with your local fishmonger. Shopping for sashimi ready fish is not something to be done in the neighborhood mega-mart, unless the fishmonger knows what he or she is talking about and knows the importance of freshness. Let the fishmonger know that you want sushi grade fish and that you are using it to make sashimi and they will be able to steer you in the right direction. It is most likely that you will need to place a special order at the fish market, and this may cost a bit more and take some time to get exactly the type of fish that you want, but it will be far less costly and time-consuming than a trip to the hospital. If you did not catch the fish yourself or have a fishmonger that you know and trust, you have absolutely no business making sashimi or sushi.
With all of that out of the way, the next step to determining what fish to buy depends on the picture that you want to paint. Your local library will probably have some books on this particular art form, complete with pictures from accredited sashimi chefs. These pictures are amazing for their beauty, grace, delicacy, and elegance - not to mention the vast variety in the visual presentation. At its highest form, sashimi is far beyond a bunch of thinly sliced raw fish: it should provoke an emotional reaction the same way a beautiful painting does.
The first step to deciding what fish to buy is knowing what is to be created. Different fish have not just different colors, but also different textures. First of all, decide which plate is going to be the canvas for your creation. Secondly, get a very clear idea in your mind of what you want the final picture to look like. Finally, take the time to draw it all on a piece of paper. It really does not matter if you can draw or not, this is just the blueprint. Make detailed notes as to different colors and textures. Believe it or not, this does not only become easier with practice, you will probably be amazed at how much detail starts pouring out of your mind once you allow the project to start rolling over you.
Now that you know what the finished product is going to look like, it is time to start choosing fish. As has been noted earlier, this will probably require a special order, so knowing your fish is important. To use a simple analogy, anything round can serve as a wheel, but only a certain type of wheel will fit on your car. An even more specific type is needed to match your car's motif.
That being said, let us look at some specific types of fish in terms of color and texture. When most of us think of tuna, we think of red, but different kinds of tuna and different cuts have different shades of red, while it is almost uniform in texture. Yellowtail cut closer to the skin has a very deep, angry red. Bonito, or warm water tuna, has a warm orange-red color. The most expensive cuts, toro, or fatty cuts, are very light in color, while leaner cuts (chutoro) is almost the color of salmon, only lacking the lines. Redder meat (akami) is cut near the spine.
Sea Bream is considered the Cadillac of fish for sashimi. It has a very pale orange throughout except nearer the head, where it explodes in a brilliant sunburst with a slightly rough texture. Abalone will give an almost perfect off white and a very glossy texture. Octopus, which is cooked, is also white and smooth, but the edges go from blue to purple to black with a fascinating ridged pattern of the tentacles. Halibut, cut near the side fins, is a delicately pale, translucent pink. Mackerel gives a slightly rougher texture and has a tan, almost beige tint. Of course, these colors vary from region to region and where the fish was caught will have an impact on the color. Trial and error is the only way to establish the experience needed to be able to order with confidence.
Creating sashimi is a difficult but extraordinarily beautiful edible art form. If you take the time to get to know your fish and its freshness, your local fishmonger, and to design the plate, you will be rewarded. Once you have a handle on creating attractive sashimi plates, you may be inspired to look into other food decoration. |
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