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Hawaii not only has its own time zone but within its capital city a mix of sights derived from every era of its historical timeline¡ªtribal, monarchy, missionary, Victorian, world war, and high-tech. Here¡¯s an overview of some of the best places to expand your knowledge of the 50th state.
THE BISHOP MUSEUM
Celebration of the melting pot heritage of the Hawaiian people was a cause that Princess Bernice of the Kamehameha royal family believed in all of her life. Upon her death shortly before the turn of the century, her husband Charles Reed Bishop established the Bishop Museum as an educational and cultural compound that would encourage native children to learn about and to honor the ways and traditions of their island ancestors. Today, it contains the largest public collection of artifacts, heirlooms, dioramas, costumes, writings and photographs that document the history of the islands as well as the influence of outside nationalities on trade, language, religion, diet, and social hierarchy. The Bishop Museum has also been acclaimed as one of the premier research institutes in the country for its sociological, archaeological and natural history programs. Don¡¯t miss the gift store on your way out; almost any book that you would want to find on Hawaiian history or biographies of its early rulers can be found here.
FATHER DAMIEN MUSEUM
During the 19th century, the islands¡¯ tribal way of life was sharply disrupted by the arrival of missionaries. Shocked by the natives¡¯ worship of vengeful gods, lack of clothing and even greater lack of propriety in sexual relations, they immediately set about introducing religion, education, hygiene, modesty, and anything else that they felt would bring the rudiments of civilization to a community they deemed to be heathen. While modern sentiments continue to hint that the missionaries may have done more harm than good in imposing their own values and altering the destiny of paradise, at least one member of the clergy gets high marks all around. Father Damien arrived from Belgium in the early 1860¡¯s to attend to Hawaiian natives who had contracted illnesses brought by the outside world. His most exceptional work, of course, is associated with the leper colonies on the island of Molokai. Upon his death from this same disease, a museum was established to memorialize his selfless dedication to the Hawaiian people. In the bustle of foot traffic straight across from Waikiki Beach, its tucked-away locale behind the St. Augustine By the Sea Church is one that is easy for the first-timer to miss. Following a short video, visitors can gaze on this well loved priest¡¯s personal possessions as well as sketches and artifacts from the 1800¡¯s.
IOLANI PALACE
For those of you old enough to remember actor Jack Lord¡¯s police drama, ¡°Hawaii Five-O,¡± Iolani Palace is going to strike a chord of familiarity. The fictitious police detective and his staff had their headquarters in what has the distinction of being America¡¯s only royal residence. It was not a particularly happy address, however, in the final months of the island¡¯s last reigning queen, Lilioukalni. The monarch¡¯s unabashed vilification of the U.S. government¡¯s decision to annex the islands made her a dangerous element to have on the loose. Fearful that the queen would rally enough support for her own agenda to keep Hawaii under the rule of the family crown, the Americans placed her under house arrest in her own palace until such time as all the proper paperwork could be drawn up. Even her last-ditch effort to abdicate and allow title to pass to her beautiful young niece, Princess Kaiulani, fell on deaf ears. Tours of Iolani Palace are available between 9 and 2 Wednesdays through Saturdays.
THE ARIZONA MEMORIAL AND THE MISSOURI
Even with the passage of over 60 years, oil continues to leak from the sunken battleship Arizona at Pearl Harbor, giving the surface a surrealistic shimmer. Following a video in the center¡¯s theater auditorium, a Navy skiff delivers visitors to this floating memorial commemorating the lives and deaths of those who perished in the attack on December 7, 1941. This gleaming white monument straddles the battleship directly below where the 1,102 Americans lost on that fateful morning remain entombed to this day. The inner sanctuary contains a wall listing the names of those who perished. In addition, markers in the harbor reveal the names of the Arizona¡¯s sister ships that were unable to slip the bottlenecked harbor and escape to the open sea when the attack began. What precipitated America¡¯s involvement in World War II is also the site of where it all ended. Sharing the same harbor and open to the public is the battleship Missouri where the peace declaration was signed which finally brought things to a close. Upon your return to the visitor¡¯s center, be sure to take time to view the permanent exhibits, photographs and maps. In addition, the center¡¯s gift store has an extensive offering of military books, memorabilia and films related to the war years.
PUNCHBOWL
The ancient Hawaiians did not take kindly to members who ran amok of tribal rules or who offended the gods with their arrogance or careless behavior. Accordingly, the wrongdoers would be taken to a volcano called Pouwaina (Consecrated Hill) and sacrificed. (Keep in mind that this was the same lineage of people who once decided to have Captain Cook for lunch. Literally.) The strait-laced missionaries, of course, regarded these rituals and cannibalistic practices as barbaric and soon put a stop to them. This extinct crater, however, is still associated with the forfeit of lives, specifically in its capacity as the Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific, Punchbowl. The 116 acres of this park setting commemorate the heroism of military personnel as well as relate the events of World War II¡¯s Pacific theater in a series of painted murals and maps.
THE PALI HIGHWAY
Prior to its unification under Kamehameha the Great, the Hawaiian islands operated as separate entities, each having its own tribal leader. In spite of shared ancestry and a common reliance on the bounty of nature, brotherly love and esprit de corps did not reign supreme. Skirmishes, kidnappings and random bloodshed were commonplace, fostered by the belief that anyone who came from a neighboring island was a threat that needed to be suppressed. Recognizing the need to get organized as a key to long-term survival, Kamehameha rounded up his best warriors, put them into longboats and began his campaign for king. Already the recognized commander in chief of The Big Island (Hawaii), the choice he offered his adversaries was fairly simple: ¡°You¡¯re either with me or you¡¯re not.¡± Lanai, Maui and Molokai took one look at his Kamehameha¡¯s manpower and decided that ¡°with¡± was the better option. Oahu was not as easily convinced that it wanted such an aggressive stranger in charge of their lives. In response, Kamehameha split his landing party into two groups, one on the shores of Waikiki and the other at Waialae. Together, they succeeded in driving the opposition into the Nuuanu Valley and up the jagged crest of the Pali. ¡°Let me rephrase my question,¡± Kamehameha proposed. ¡°Would you like to jump to your deaths or agree that I¡¯d make a great king?¡± Those who hesitated in their replies found themselves summarily pushed off balance with spears and rocks. Those who pledged fidelity were allowed to live. Seeing the hopelessness of his situation in a rapidly diminishing pool of followers, the last hold-out monarch conceded defeat, bringing Oahu, Kauai and Nihau into the fold of the Kamehameha empire.
On your way back from this breathtaking (and windy) landmark, save some time for a stop at Queen Emma¡¯s Summer Palace. Open daily from 9 to 4, this Nuuanu Valley home and surrounding gardens was where King Kamehameha IV and members of the royal family went to beat the heat and humidity in the summers of the late 19th century. The Victorian influence is very much in evidence throughout the house, especially in the furnishings, personal belongings, and portraitures. The site is maintained by the Daughters of Hawaii, who also operate the Hawaiian crafts store located on the premises.
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