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The Russian Tsars knew what they were doing when the chose Nice as their favorite vacation spot. This little town on the French Riviera boasts warm, blue ocean and clear, blue skies. It's no wonder Nice is considered the captial of the Cote D¡¯Azure (Blue Coast, in English.) The expanses of blue are interrupted only by the lush green grass and towering palm trees.
The largest city between Marsailles and Genoa, Nice is the first stop for most trips to the French Riviera, and it is the least expensive, (and least exclusive) city in the area. From here, you can take side trips to Cannes (home to the eponymous film festival), Monaco, and Saint Tropez. But it is easy to overlook all of Nice¡¯s attractions in the rush to leave town. Take time to experience Nice, leisurely exploring its wide promenade and narrow winding streets, its beaches and parks, and its people and history.
The first thing to do in Nice is hit the beach. There's not much sand in these parts; instead, the coast is covered in rocks, from small gravel to golf-ball sized stones. The public beaches here generally offer a free area, where you'll need to bring your own mat or lounge chair, and a pay area, where a fee of will buy you access to a lounge chair or caf¨¦ table. While nude bathing is illegal, remember that topless bathing is common and widely accepted in Europe, so take it off and let loose or at least try not to be too shocked.
If you get tired of lying on the beach, get up and take a stroll along the Promenade D¡¯Anglais. The promenade was built in the 1820¡¯s, financed by an Englishman, Reverend Lewis Way. Pedestrians, inline skaters, and bicyclists share this wide boardwalk, which runs along the coast, between the street and the beach for the entire length of Nice. Numerous benches along the way offer a peaceful and scenic opportunity to read a book, view the sunset, or simply watch the people go by.
Another scenic attraction in Nice is Le Chateau, a grassy park on the highest point in town. This is the birthplace of Nice, where the Greeks founded the city, then called Nikaia (derived from the word nike, which means victory). There is no chateau at Le Chateau, however. The Greeks originally built an acropolis here, and it has at various points held a cathedral, a military installation, and a castle. Since 1706, Le Chateau has been simply a park, with shady trees and grassy areas overlooking the Mediterranean Sea on one side and the medieval old town on the other.
The old town area (Vieille Ville) includes the Cours Saleya, a large flower market that turns into an antique market on Mondays. The area is full of cafes and bars, frequented by tourists, students, and locals. Wander the winding medieval streets for a real taste of France, and grab a bite to eat at one of the many seafood restaurants in the area. The buildings that separate the Cours Saleya from the Quai des Etats-Unis on the other side used to house local fishermen¡¯s catches of the day, but most of these buildings have now been converted to restaurants.
The center of Nice is the Albert I Garden (Jardin Albert-1er), named after the Belgian king in 1914. Separating the old town from the beachfront, the garden features lush green grass, sculptures, fountains, and even an old carousel. Nearby, the centerpiece of the town is the place Massena, a square that houses shops, cafes, and the Fountain of the Sun (Fontaine du Soleil), which was built in 1956 to represent the nine planets of the solar system.
France is known for its avant-garde artistic sensibilities, and Nice does not disappoint. A variety of art museums cater to mostly-modern art lovers. The Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art (Musee d¡¯Art Moderne et d¡¯Art Contemporain) houses works by the modern masters, including Warhol, Lichtenstein, Rauschenburg, and several lesser-known French artists. The Mattise Museum (Musee Matisse) features works by Henri Matisse. Mainly sketches and nudes, the collection consists mostly of works created while he spent his later years in Nice. Fans of Matisse may want to visit the Anatole-Jakovsky Museum of Na?ve Art (Musee International d¡¯Art Naif Anatole-Jakovsky), which features Na?ve artists, who painted in an untrained style, much different from the impressionists of the time.
The Marc Chagall Museum (Musee National Message Biblique Marc-Chagall) features some of the artist¡¯s biblical works, donated by Chagall himself in 1966 and 1972. The museum includes a variety of media, including oil paintings, drawings, sculptures, lithographs, and stained glass. Featuring traditional themes, Chagall¡¯s biblical work is very much modern art, influenced by the Surrealist, Cubist, and Na?ve Art movements of the time. For more traditional art-lovers, the Museum of Fine Art (Musee des Beaux-Arts) houses works by French masters Monet, Boudin, and Rodin. The collection spans from the eighteenth century to more current works.
Nice has been heavily influenced by the Russian Tsars, who frequently vacationed here in the nineteenth century. The Russian influence can easily be seen in some of the local architecture, especially the St. Nicolas Russian Orthodox Cathedral (Cath¨¦drale Orthodoxe Russe St-Nicolas ¨¤ Nice). The cathedral was built by Tsar Nicolas II in 1912 so that vacationing Russian aristocracy would have a place to worship. The cathedral¡¯s onion-shaped cupolas are a remarkable sight, and they stand out even more in contrast to Nice¡¯s French and Italian architecture.
Nice has weathered its transformation from a historic, aristocratic beach town to a bustling, modern metropolis. Its rich history, scenic beauty, and welcoming atmosphere make it a perfect place to stay on the south coast of France. Whether you spend your whole trip on the beach or venture out to the parks and museums, Nice¡¯s bright sun and warm air will make you glad you stayed.
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