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The chalk used in rock climbing and bouldering came to these sports from gymnastics. Also known as light magnesium carbonate or calcium carbonate, it has literally changed the face of the climbing sport. It is available in solid block or powder form and is most commonly white in color. The powder form can even be purchased in a convenient cheesecloth ball that drops into your chalk bag.
It is used, as it is in gymnastics, to improve one¡¯s grip on the rock or holds. It is most helpful on small holds and sloping holds. When environmental conditions such as hot or humid days cause one¡¯s hands to become slippery, the chalk will instantly dry them. There is also some psychological help from chalk as well. Climbers will ritually ¡°chalk-up¡± just before attempting a difficult move, while planning the next series of moves on a route, or to delay some dreaded inevitable maneuver.
Chalk is typically carried in a bag that is either attached to the climber¡¯s harness or by a separate runner, usually centered and hanging from the lower back, providing access for both hands. The bag is typically deep enough to carry a significant amount of chalk and the rim of the chalk bag will be constructed with a stiffened material to keep the bag open. The opening is usually just wide enough to get a hand in.
Chalk can be very useful on hand holds, especially in a hot sweaty environment. However, they can cause footholds to become more slippery. Like spreading flour on a linoleum floor, trying to stand on a tiny foothold that has residual chalk on it from using it as a hand hold could be detrimental to a successful climb. Try to minimize the use of chalk on holds that are both footholds and handholds.
There are some negative attributes to chalk. As the chalk builds on the rock and hand holds, it can become more slimy or slippery, creating the need for the climber to use more chalk. Calcium carbonate will also cause the rock to deteriorate and erode, causing hold to break in time.
Many climbers and most others believe that the chalk defaces rock; leaving white scaring smudges up the face of an otherwise beautiful cliff or face. Chalk can also mark routes so that the holds of the route are easily identified by the next climber, preventing that next climber from discovering the route themselves. There are now several different colors of chalk available to combat these aesthetic concerns.
When using chalk in an indoor climbing gym or on plastic holds, the holds can become impregnated with the chalk, ultimately causing them to become very slippery. To mitigate this, while climbing indoors or outdoors one can carry a small brush, such as a toothbrush, to clean the chalk from the rock and holds. Part of an indoor climbing gym¡¯s routine maintenance should be cleaning the holds.
Using chalk is defiantly needed, so don¡¯t forget it and use it when you need it, but it can become habit forming and is detrimental to the rock. Try to use it sparingly. Try not to use chalk when warming up and on easy climbs or routes with big holds and otherwise when it is not really necessary. |
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