Location: Home > food > Hooray for ankimo season
Hooray for ankimo seasonPosted Oct 26th 2006 1:29PM by Joe DiStefanoFiled under: East Coast, Fish, Steaming, Food OdditiesAppreciating sushi involves a learning curve for non-Japanese. I know that's an obvious statement just as sure as I know I still haven't yet crested that subtle, briny wave. After I realized sushi has nothing to do with Philadelphia rolls and such, things got interesting. I learned that if you ask your sushi chef what's in season, you'll be richly rewarded.Yesterday was a perfect example. For weeks I'd been inquiring about ankimo, since I know it's available in the fall. I was pleased to hear that I happened to visit my local spot on the first day this year that they were serving what many call the foie gras of the sea. Ankimo, or monkfish liver, with its pink to orange color and rich melting texture, is very much like foie gras and has scarcely any oceanic flavor . It also has the distinction of coming from one of the gnarliest looking fish out there. The liver is prepared by first steaming, then chilling and finally slicing it up. It's dressed with ponzu sauce and perhaps some spicy roe. I usually order ankimo sashimi, so I can get an opulent portion. Last year I was lucky enough to sit down at the sushi bar just as they were about to chill the warm ankimo. The owner bestowed a few slices on me. The warm, creamy liver melted on my tongue evoking a swoonworthy memory of the first time I tried foie gras. Oishii!
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